Also from online and youtube vloggers I got a better sense of the temperature profile I should employ. It would go something like this
1. place the pcb (with solder paste and parts in place) on the hotplate
2. fire it up to 100C
leave at above for no more than ~2 min (this is partly to reduce/prevent thermal shock for the remainder of the procedure)
3. crank up the board to 150-160C
this is the temperature where the solder paste "activates". leave it here for about ~1min to 90 seconds
4. crank up the board to 180-190C
this is the temperature where the solder paste "reflows". you will see it turning a shiny metal color as it transitions. leave it here for no more than ~2 min
5. remove the board immediately from the hotplate (dont leave it on there while the hotplate cools because the one I have is dense aluminum and retains heat for a long time. in my case i took advantage of the winter weather and set the board by my slight open window in order to ramp down the heat
This particular process went unbelievable well - much better than I expected. And I learned the following
1. between 0 and 100C my hotplate was reading 20C below the thermocouple (Exatech DMM with probe inserted inside the drilled hole on the aluminum block - dont use IR sensor - its not accurate)
2. between 100C and 180C my hotplate was reading 50C below the thermocouple. This of course explains the damage I had done to the first prototype - with board warp from over heating.
3. leaving solder paste on a board for over two days (from a reflow process I didnt do on time) causes it to "cake in" and solidify.
4. following from above ... scraping the board with copper scouring pad under hot water is the worst thing to do. it will leave scratches on the board and peel off the solder resist on the layer.
5. a better approach is to soak the board in 90% to 99% isoprophyl alcohol for 30 to 60 seconds and then use a foam or washcloth to wipe out the now softened solder paste
I had a friend (who had significant experience soldering) touch up some parts for me. Here is the final board with surface mount AND through parts in place. call it MARK I (Iron man reference)
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